Aquascutum has long been known as a British heritage brand; they have recently secured an Italian manufacturing deal, which leaves creative director Joanna Sykes "free to focus on design". This was still classic Aquascutum though; clean lines were everywhere with expert tailoring. The palette was basic (navy, beige, khaki, grey and black) but as always the coats were exactly the kind of coat I like.
Simone Rocha gave us a show which affirmed her status as a designer to watch; since graduating CSM two years ago Rocha has presented as part of Fashion East, collaborated with Topshop and created a shoe sensation. But with her first runway presentation we saw the potential of longevity. Particularly eye catching here; silver leather, fur stitched on to PVC and tulle over tweed. And of course the brogues had a perspex sole. N.B. That black coat is on my wish list.
This was Todd Lynn's strongest collection to date; there was perfect architectural draping (didn't the coats just look excellent?), well cut leathers and clean cuts. Also there was jacquard pieces which were very reminiscent of the experiments at Proenza Schouler, and these worked particularly well, especially in their shades of ochre.
I don't think we'll see Kate Middleton in the sheer dress, but other than this - Princess Dresses.
House of Holland
There was a change in the wind at House of Holland. The designs weren't quite as garish as usual, and this collection struck me as being more wearable than before. I particularly liked the striped pieces that opened the show (I love a good stripe), and the dress on Antonia Wessloch made me fall a little bit in love. Also of note; a black coat with red fur sleeves and the hats which seem to be popping up at every show. If HoH is more like this in future then I might be paying more attention