With his recent win of the BFC's Fashion Fund award and the hype building on Twitter all day, there was a definite excitement, anticipation and expectation surrounding Jonathan Saunders' show.
This season Saunders made much more use of materials with embossed pieces, satin mixed with chiffon, jacquard and tweed effects. Saunders' woman was still ladylike in every way and there were a few pastel pieces which harked back to his beautiful Spring collection; here there were high collars, sun visors and patterns which screamed of American equestrianism. Hypnotising geometric patterns were splashed onto pieces, particularly on a chiffon sleeved dress worn by Hanne Gaby Odiele. Also of note were the geometric belts (wide belts are emerging as a key trend this fall) which dipped in the centre, the tie ankle sandals which came in several shades, and the colour palette; brown was prominent, along with earthy greens and bright red.
The inspiration for Saunders' collection was a single Japanese photograph; an inspiration that was realised as the last few dresses hit the runway. White flowers were embroidered onto pieces of traditional Japanese red. Perhaps fitting then that Saunders' show took place 20 floors above the rest of London; up here in the sky there was a feeling that we were just that bit closer to the Land of the Rising Sun - perhaps that's when we will need Saunders' sun visors.