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22.2.15

NYFW ROUND UP



NYFW's frostiest season for a while has come to a close. My favourite shows of the week came from Altuzurra and Prabal Gurung but there were many more amazing looks. Below is my roundup of favourite looks of the week,

Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone bucked the 70s obsession and headed to the 90s, specifically 90s hip-hop. Think brightest bright hues, killer outerwear and the sort of slip dress that every 10s (if we call it that) wants to wear.



Alexander Wang
Take literally the phrase 'all black errythang' and you will have Alexander Wang's Fall collection. Grunge vibes were mixed with feminine embellishments. A departure from sportswear, perhaps, but a redirection towards the customer for sure.



Victoria Beckham
The evolution continues at Victoria Beckham. The designer has long passed the days of simple dresses and is branching into new territory. Outerwear here here was bold, and best in show, a fisherman knit paired with a satin skirt. All white and crisp.

 

Vera Wang
Showing in black is the quickest way to dispel a bridal tag. Vera Wang's Fall collection featured the footwear of the week, perfect for the New York freeze. Sharp tailoring was mixed with Vera's forte, dresses. Kendall Jenner's babydoll velvet dress stuck in the mind long after.

 

Proenza Schouler
Customer friendly wasn't really the feel from this collection, but the eye catching power of the pieces couldn't be denied. McCullough and Hernandez never fail to experiment and push the boundaries and this was a complex deconstruction of their fundamental core. Slashed tops embellished in thousands of sequins moved with a entrancing power, tweed coats provided the smart outerwear and the succession of dresses at the end provided an insight into the obsessive detailing of the designers. Sheer, embellished, feathered; they were a little too everything and yet flawless nonetheless.



Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa does minimalism like no one else, but this was a new playing field. Outwear was crisp and clean yet detailed; a maroon overcoat rang of Louis Vuitton's PVC days and yet had a refinement to it. All were paired with skintight, thigh high leather boots that everyone watching wanted. The dresses which closed the show were the most 'Calvin', but the outerwear was the best.



Marchesa
Marchesa has long been known as the maker of princess dresses, ballgowns fit for the Oscars. Their collection didn't hold as much coherence as previous ones have but the dresses, inspired by the 20s, were still flawless. Chapman and Craig know their customer and they pitched right. Call it flapper, call it 20s, call it what you will. These dresses were a fairytale.



J.Mendel
Mendel's collection was inspired by 1970s New York nightlife; a scene to be seen. The baroque items that opened the show drew the eye, followed by a reinvention of the Mendel dress. This was less fairytale and more class; printed dresses with wrapped neck scarves, deconstructed nightwear, delicate lace overlaid with fur. There was a sexiness behind the collection and these clothes will be a surefire way to make an impression.



Oscar De La Renta
Peter Copping took centre stage as the new creative director with this collection and the man, handpicked by the late Oscar himself, had a whole lot to live up to. Copping took lead from those who had worked with Oscar before and it showed. The skirtsuits here were as elegant and refined as ever. Strength lay in colour (bold pinks, yellows and blues mixed with black) and the impeccable detailing on the dresses will resonate with the longstanding fans of Oscar. Look out for one of these at the Oscars this weekend. There were a lot of positives here and a lot of promise for Copping.



Michael Kors
Kors knows how to appeal to the fashion elite and he does it better than anyone. This collection offered sheer opulence paired with the American style which is the foundation of his brand. Fur (a Kors staple) opened the show and adorned several looks. Sharp tailoring and belted suits held a Mad-Men era vibe, but Kors woman held more power. Baroque details in gold were over the top but delightful and the dresses which closed the show were embellished and tailored to perfection.

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