WHO WHERE WHAT: OSCARS 2015

The annual 'what will she wear' fest that is the Oscars took place in LA last night. Reese Witherspoon may have complained about dress related questions, however the 25 strong team at Alaia who created Lady Gaga's dress were probably pretty happy to get their name checks. Sure, Reese is right, the event is there to appraise the work of the film world. But the fashion world watched (apologetically) to see who wore what and to cringe when J.Lo and Luciana Duvall rocked up bedecked in the same Elie Saab number - awkward. The awards show was all the duller for a lack of Jennifer Lawrence falling over but even her absence may have been made up for by the musical performances of the night. Here's my round up of the best dressed of the night.

1. Emma Stone in Elie Saab Haute Couture

Emma Stone is the ultimate girl crush (well, mine anyway) and this embellished chartreuse number by Elie Saab put her leaps and bounds ahead of the pack. It's always refreshing to see something other than black, white or red. Extra brownie points too for perfect lipstick and matching shoes.

2. Rosamund Pike in custom Givenchy Haute Couture

Rosamund gave a killer performance in Gone Girl (geddit?) and this dress was oh so Amy. I haven't exactly been a fan of her fashion choices this awards season but this dress was spot on. Colour, tick. Cut, tick. Detailing and perfect shoes, tick. Gutted that she didn't take away the award for Best Actress but yay for the Brit girls.

3. Zoe Saldana in Atelier Versace

Zoe Saldana, ever a fabulous dresser, looked every inch the Hollywood siren in this pink champagne (that's a colour, right?) gown. She looked pretty uncomfortable yeah, but the clinch at the waist was worth it. This is how Oscar dresses should be.

4. Eddie Redmayne & Hannah Bagshawe in Alexander McQueen 

All hail the cutest damn couple in Hollywood, probably the world. Eddie's acceptance speech for his performance as Professor Stephen Hawking was bashful perfection and we're all oh-so-pleased that he won. His victory was all the sweeter for the pissed off look on Sherlock's face. Representing British fashion, the Best Actor and his wife wore Alexander McQueen and Hannah's dress was to die for. She may not be a Hollywood actress, but Hannah looked every inch the part. 

5. Jessica Chastain in custom Givenchy Haute Couture

Ever since we saw her in the red number in The Help we know Jessica Chastain knows how to wear a dress. This custom Givenchy number had all the right curves in all the right places (thank you Meghan), plus embellishment, a perfect navy hue and a thigh high split. Take note, Kim K, this is how you wear Givenchy. Sex bomb, sex bomb.

6. Lupita Nyong'o in custom Calvin Klein Collection 

Lupita, resident Darling of the Academy, flawed the field last year as she stormed to victory in a pale blue Prada gown. This year she stepped her game up in a custom Calvin Klein Collection, covered in six thousand (yes six thousand) pearls. Imagine the time that went into that. The cut made it all a tad Little Mermaid but a stunning one all the same. This is one mermaid I sure wouldn't mind looking like. 

7. John Legend in Gucci & Chrissy Teigen in Zuhair Murad Haute Couture

John Legend, dapper in Gucci, stole the show alongside Common. Their performance of Glory bought the audience to their feet and tears to the eyes of Oprah, David Oyelowo and Chris Pine (hot damn). If you didn't see their speech, go and look it up. Their eloquence and humility put the other speeches in the shade and made you feel like change really is gonna come. On Legend's arm was his wife, long legged gazelle goddess, Chrissy. Her pale blue embellished and thigh cut Zuhair Murad gown was flawless, the kind of number the Best Actress nominees should have braved.

8. Sienna Miller in Oscar De La Renta

Sienna Miller, boho chic queen, gave Peter Copping his red carpet debut in midnight blue Oscar De La Renta. The detailing on the dress (damn that filigree is good) was bang on, even those velvet bows which would usually trigger my gag reflex. Can we also just take a moment to look at how perfect Sienna's hair and make up is. 

9. Jennifer Hudson in Romona Keveza

Hooray for colour! J.Hud's yellow column gown from Romona Keveza was an absolute vision. I'm not always a fan of her red carpet looks but this one was perfect (I've used that word too much). Flattering, bold and memorable; good choice, Jen. 

NYFW ROUND UP

NYFW's frostiest season for a while has come to a close. My favourite shows of the week came from Altuzurra and Prabal Gurung but there were many more amazing looks. Below is my roundup of favourite looks of the week,

Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone bucked the 70s obsession and headed to the 90s, specifically 90s hip-hop. Think brightest bright hues, killer outerwear and the sort of slip dress that every 10s (if we call it that) wants to wear.



Alexander Wang
Take literally the phrase 'all black errythang' and you will have Alexander Wang's Fall collection. Grunge vibes were mixed with feminine embellishments. A departure from sportswear, perhaps, but a redirection towards the customer for sure.



Victoria Beckham
The evolution continues at Victoria Beckham. The designer has long passed the days of simple dresses and is branching into new territory. Outerwear here here was bold, and best in show, a fisherman knit paired with a satin skirt. All white and crisp.

 

Vera Wang
Showing in black is the quickest way to dispel a bridal tag. Vera Wang's Fall collection featured the footwear of the week, perfect for the New York freeze. Sharp tailoring was mixed with Vera's forte, dresses. Kendall Jenner's babydoll velvet dress stuck in the mind long after.

 

Proenza Schouler
Customer friendly wasn't really the feel from this collection, but the eye catching power of the pieces couldn't be denied. McCullough and Hernandez never fail to experiment and push the boundaries and this was a complex deconstruction of their fundamental core. Slashed tops embellished in thousands of sequins moved with a entrancing power, tweed coats provided the smart outerwear and the succession of dresses at the end provided an insight into the obsessive detailing of the designers. Sheer, embellished, feathered; they were a little too everything and yet flawless nonetheless.



Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa does minimalism like no one else, but this was a new playing field. Outwear was crisp and clean yet detailed; a maroon overcoat rang of Louis Vuitton's PVC days and yet had a refinement to it. All were paired with skintight, thigh high leather boots that everyone watching wanted. The dresses which closed the show were the most 'Calvin', but the outerwear was the best.



Marchesa
Marchesa has long been known as the maker of princess dresses, ballgowns fit for the Oscars. Their collection didn't hold as much coherence as previous ones have but the dresses, inspired by the 20s, were still flawless. Chapman and Craig know their customer and they pitched right. Call it flapper, call it 20s, call it what you will. These dresses were a fairytale.



J.Mendel
Mendel's collection was inspired by 1970s New York nightlife; a scene to be seen. The baroque items that opened the show drew the eye, followed by a reinvention of the Mendel dress. This was less fairytale and more class; printed dresses with wrapped neck scarves, deconstructed nightwear, delicate lace overlaid with fur. There was a sexiness behind the collection and these clothes will be a surefire way to make an impression.



Oscar De La Renta
Peter Copping took centre stage as the new creative director with this collection and the man, handpicked by the late Oscar himself, had a whole lot to live up to. Copping took lead from those who had worked with Oscar before and it showed. The skirtsuits here were as elegant and refined as ever. Strength lay in colour (bold pinks, yellows and blues mixed with black) and the impeccable detailing on the dresses will resonate with the longstanding fans of Oscar. Look out for one of these at the Oscars this weekend. There were a lot of positives here and a lot of promise for Copping.



Michael Kors
Kors knows how to appeal to the fashion elite and he does it better than anyone. This collection offered sheer opulence paired with the American style which is the foundation of his brand. Fur (a Kors staple) opened the show and adorned several looks. Sharp tailoring and belted suits held a Mad-Men era vibe, but Kors woman held more power. Baroque details in gold were over the top but delightful and the dresses which closed the show were embellished and tailored to perfection.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ AW15

Minimalism and Narciso Rodriquez are synonymous however his Fall Winter collection gave new rigour to the term 'minimal'. Straight cuts and elongated lines elevated simplicity to a new plane on which the models (wearing platforms) were Amazonian and the clothes went on forever. The trick with Rodriguez is to look beyond the minimalism and at the detail in the clothing which is always subtle; a leather lapel, delicate embroidery and tweedy panels added pops of detail.

On the rare occasion where the Rodriguez departs from a monochrome palette, colour is always interesting. Peach trousers were teamed with a pale tangerine coat. A mint waistcoat, cut to the hip, was a dream for workwear savvy watchers. The formula at Rodriguez has always worked; simple yet sharp clothes, minimal yet flattering. It worked again here.

PRABAL GURUNG AW15

Prabal Gurung's collection may have single-handedly brought back the slip dress. Hues of lemon, bright red, grey and midnight navy were fashioned into loose shapes, not fitted yet not unstructured. Slit to the thigh, they oozed a sexiness that was a departure from figure hugging. The choice of models reflected what Gurung was trying to do here; dressing women and womens' bodies. Outerwear was a juxtaposition to the dresses; heavy, thermal and masculine in a way that set the delicacy of the dresses off to perfection. If you want a summary of this collection look no further than Frankie Rayder, swathed in satin, chiffon and embellished midnight blue. The crowd cheered for the clothes, and Gurung has grown up.

 

ALTUZARRA AW15

No Joseph Altuzarra collection would be complete without a thigh-high split. The designer is one who knows his customer through and through and she was reimagined here through a succession of fur collars, knee high boots and Prince of Wales check. Altuzarra's big sell is outerwear; the most potent offering here was a pale blue tailor cut coat with a huge fur collar. Subtle, no, but perfect for the New York freeze. 

The woman here was a refined, subversive kind of sexy. The menswear influences were clear but femininity shone through. Knee high boots, topped with lace, hid everything yet suggested much. A white lace dress demonstrated a bold expansion of underwear as outerwear. The three velvet dévoré dresses which closed the show were the most eye-catching we've seen from Altuzarra thus far. Spattered with gold, slit to the thigh and finished with lace, they floated with the feel of a woman breaking the rules.