NYFW TOP 5

NYFW's icy week came to a close yesterday with an explosive Marc Jacobs show under the clouds. Here's a round up of my favourite shows of the week...
Proenza Schouler
  Parson's prodigies Jack McCullough & Lazaro Hernandez brightened up fashion week on Wednesday with an experimental collection. The monochrome that had reigned the week was gone at Proenza Schouler, where electric blues, sea greens and sunset reds infused the animal patterns emblazoned across the clothes. The printed coats that opened the show were shaped to the waist but with bold shoulders and hips, and were layered over printed turtlenecks and tailored trousers. As 'Work It' played on the soundtrack we were given a sleek and stylish New York woman, who most importantly of all, wore flats in a week when ice was on the pavements.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs has returned to helming his label full time following his departure as creative director of Louis Vuitton after a long love affair. Jacob's show, which closed the week, took place under a construction of clouds which were splashed across Instagram from every angle. The past few seasons at the house of Jacobs haven't exactly been 'up my street', the problem being that most of the time the clothes simply look unwearable. However this season there was a touch of romance, of minimalism and of pure wearablity (and that's not even a word). The simple dresses that opened the show were smart and chic, followed by knitwear and ombre shearling coats which were a highlight of the week. Finally came the dresses, frilly and floaty; one in crystal white with a wide v-neck and frills stole my heart. 

Narciso Rodriguez    Rodriguez has always been a solid favourite of mine; he executes minimalism but with such precision and skill that it's hard to not give him credit. The smallest details on his clothes add to their beauty, whether it be a colour contrasting lining or lapel, or a cut of different material. The middle section of the show summed up how I want to be dressing; sleek lines, smart shapes and clean layering. Eveningwear closed the show, sparkling and cut into feminine shapes. A green sequined, grey hemmed dress with a square cut neck was a personal favourite.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung is a celebrity favourite and his designs are usually red hot for the red carpet. This Fall collection took a turn; waffle-knit sweaters, fur detailing, high necks, chiffon skirts and rustic prints. There was a heavy emphasis on draping and the materials used as such; tweed draped as eveningwear with chiffon inserts, feathered skirts bursting underneath a draped layer. The eveningwear on show was distantly different from the evening wear of past seasons, but the high slits will ensure that his red carpet clientèle are still keen.

Altuzurra 

Joseph Altuzurra's Fall collection further explored his core notions of craft and luxury in a show that took place in the same setting as the NYFW heavyweights (DVK, Kors, Klein). His collection had a sense of restraint, not overly loud but quietly crafted and perfectly executed. There were tapestry style pieces, something we've seen of Altuzurra before and these led into a new development; colour. Bright neon pink and orange were slashed across smart workwear and hidden in the linings of skirts. A few checked coats felt too busy and experimental but the neutral outwear and satin evening dresses that closed the show reinforced the strong yet subtle Altuzurra woman. Silently sexy.

These collections were also worth a mention... Kaufmanfranco

Kaufmanfranco is becoming one of my favourite labels as they always produce two of the things I love; outerwear in uniform colours and perfect eveningwear. There was minimal yet perfectly executed outerwear in smart monochrome and 'glacial blue' shades and shimmering and liquid-like eveningwear; this deep-v silver number is one of my real Oscar hopes.

Vera Wang

KA departure from the typical romantic, fairytale dresses we usually see from Wang; a turn towards glamorous grunge with lots of dark florals, tartan and dark chiffon eveningwear. The best thing about this collection was how perfectly Wang made casual dressing look so easy and effortless.

Derek Lam

Lam's layered and sharp pieces nail smart Fall dressing; casual throw on outerwear which is perfectly cut, sharp-yet-comfy outerwear. My favourite look was the all-lemon one with the beautifully cut skirt. The only thing I would like to see is a little evolution in his Fall formula.