Marc Jacobs has returned to helming his label full time following his departure as creative director of Louis Vuitton after a long love affair. Jacob's show, which closed the week, took place under a construction of clouds which were splashed across Instagram from every angle. The past few seasons at the house of Jacobs haven't exactly been 'up my street', the problem being that most of the time the clothes simply look unwearable. However this season there was a touch of romance, of minimalism and of pure wearablity (and that's not even a word). The simple dresses that opened the show were smart and chic, followed by knitwear and ombre shearling coats which were a highlight of the week. Finally came the dresses, frilly and floaty; one in crystal white with a wide v-neck and frills stole my heart.
Joseph Altuzurra's Fall collection further explored his core notions of craft and luxury in a show that took place in the same setting as the NYFW heavyweights (DVK, Kors, Klein). His collection had a sense of restraint, not overly loud but quietly crafted and perfectly executed. There were tapestry style pieces, something we've seen of Altuzurra before and these led into a new development; colour. Bright neon pink and orange were slashed across smart workwear and hidden in the linings of skirts. A few checked coats felt too busy and experimental but the neutral outwear and satin evening dresses that closed the show reinforced the strong yet subtle Altuzurra woman. Silently sexy.
Kaufmanfranco is becoming one of my favourite labels as they always produce two of the things I love; outerwear in uniform colours and perfect eveningwear. There was minimal yet perfectly executed outerwear in smart monochrome and 'glacial blue' shades and shimmering and liquid-like eveningwear; this deep-v silver number is one of my real Oscar hopes.
KA departure from the typical romantic, fairytale dresses we usually see from Wang; a turn towards glamorous grunge with lots of dark florals, tartan and dark chiffon eveningwear. The best thing about this collection was how perfectly Wang made casual dressing look so easy and effortless.
Lam's layered and sharp pieces nail smart Fall dressing; casual throw on outerwear which is perfectly cut, sharp-yet-comfy outerwear. My favourite look was the all-lemon one with the beautifully cut skirt. The only thing I would like to see is a little evolution in his Fall formula.